Cenatiempo
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Ancient Greek varieties
Producing wines on Ischia for over 80 years
Practitioners of biodynamic methods
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ABOUT Cenatiempo:
The region of Campania makes some of the best white wines in Italy, and Pasquale Cenatiempo's wines from the island of Ischia are yet another demonstration of this. Ischia is a volcanic island, just off the coast of Campania, near the city Naples. The whites show the characteristic 'struck flint' character of volcanic terroirs. They are distinctive, zesty, and exciting.
Pasquale Cenatiempo's production is about half from his own grapes, which are biodynamically farmed. The rest come from other growers around the island. The wines are made by classic Italian white-wine-making; the grapes are hand-picked, crushed with no prior skin contact, fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel, with no malolactic fermentation or use of wood, and bottled in the spring following the vintage.
He uses mostly Biancolella and Forastera, two grapes whose origins are unclear but which are both now widely grown on the island. Of Biancolella, Pasquale says that Corsica, Sardinia, and Greece have all been suggested as a place of origin. It is used in blending on Capri and the Amalfi Coast, but (as far as I know) only found unblended here on Ischia.
Forastera is named as being from elsewhere ('fuori' in Italian means 'outside', the name in effect means 'outsider'), and again is only found unblended here on Ischia. Forastera has a very distinct bright mineral character (at least when grown in this volcanic soil), with herbal and citrus notes.
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The Wines:
Bianco Superiore, Ishcia DOC
Cenatiempo’s Ishcia Bianco Superiore is an absurdly good wine for the price. The blend is roughly 40% Biancolella, 45% Forastera, 15% other local varieties such as Collionara and Biancolellone (these are all old mixed plantings). The wine is pale yellow, green glints. Aromas of herbs, wet stones, with hints of apple and white peach. On the palate it’s bright and fresh, with great fruit, acidity and balance.
BIANCOLELLA, ISCHIA DOC
In addition to the two blended wines, Cenatiempo also makes an unblended version of Biancolella. Shows a pale yellow color in the glass. Fatter and more peachy than the Ischia Bianco and Lefkos, almost creamy. Lush notes of acacia blossom are balanced with hints of herbs and crisp minerality.
‘Kalimera’ Biancolella, Ischia DOC
Kalimera is a single vineyard site, right above the Cenatiempo’s palmento (an ancient Greek style of wine press). The vineyard name ‘Kalimera’ means "Buongiorno/Good day" in Greek, and harkens back to the greek origins of the island. Lush notes of acacia blossom and ripe peach are balanced with hints of herbs and crisp minerality. Lovely with fish and seafood.
‘Lefkòs’ Bianco, Ischia DOC
The Lefkòs is, in effect, a turbocharged version of the Ischia Bianco, and it tastes like it. Made from Pasquale's best vineyard, farmed biodynamically, the wine shows the same balance as the regular bottling but with more intensity (white peach, green apples, floral and herbal hints) and at the same time somehow more elegance. A beautiful wine. 60% Biancolella, 40% Forastera.
‘Gran Tifeo’ Falanghina, Campania IGT
Cenatiempo’s ‘Gran Tifeo’ Falanghina takes its name from Typhon, a titan cast down by Zeus and trapped under the island of Ischia. Today, several places on the island have names that reference body parts of the trapped monster. Grassy and mineral, this wine is a perfect pairing with fresh fish and a warm day.