Franz Gojer
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Historic estate, producing for over 150 years
One of the Alto Adige’s ‘Gang of Four’
Premier bottler of St. Magdalaner DOC
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About Franz Gojer:
Franz Gojer is one of the 'gang of four,' a group of fine small producers from the Alto Adige, the others being Andreas Widmann, Ignaz Niedrist, and Peter Pliger from Kuenhof. They have exhibited at Vinitaly together for many years, and they share a philosophy of winemaking: very expressive, very typical, very well-made wines.
Gojer's estate, Glögglhof, is right in the middle of the St. Magdalena hill, a perfect amphitheater just North-East of the city of Bolzano; this is the best-known Schiava appellation, and Gojer is in my view the best producer. We import Schiava* from four different producers already, and I am delighted to add Franz Gojer's superb examples of the variety to our list. Schiava shows fruit flavors of wild strawberry, and sometimes pomegranate, with balancing notes of herbs and tea-like fine tannins. These wines are excellent with cured pork, or any pork dish, for that matter, as well as roast chicken, even salmon. (St. Magdalena is usually blended with 5-10% Lagrein, another grape indigenous to this region.)
Gojer’s St. Magdalener Classico is about 95% Schiava and 5% Lagrein, grown in the middle of the St. Magdalener hill. Gojer also makes a St. Magdalener bottling called ‘Vigna Rondell’. Rondell is about 93% Schiava and 7% Lagrein, from the best single site on Gojer's property. This is the best single bottling of St. Magdalener I've tasted from any producer, showing a little more tannin than the regular bottling but still very drinkable. Red fruits, tea-tannins, distinct herbal notes, long, delicious. I'll be drinking quite a bit of this with roast chicken, grilled salmon, and pizza.
Franz's son Florian did an apprenticeship with Jim Clendenen in Santa Barbara and is now working with his father at Glögglhof. Franz and Florian also bought a high-altitude vineyard (600m/2,000 feet above sea-level) at Karneid on the other side of the valley from their winery, where they have planted Weissburgunder, Kerner and Sauvignon. There was a little old-vine Vernatsch (see note below) planted there, too, which is very unusual at this altitude.
Kerner is a cross between Riesling and Schiava. Gojer’s Kerner is very aromatic, with a distinctive pear-drop nose, and flower notes reminiscent of Riesling. Very fresh acidity, bone dry, I would drink this as a dry aperitif or with all sorts of appetizers.
The Sauvignon shows classic Alto Adige flavors. A combination of grapefruit, white peach, and distinct green herbal flavors. Terrific crisp acidity but very mouth filling too. Excellent seafood wine. This region is one of the world's best places for the Sauvignon grape, and this is a perfect example.
Alte Reben means ‘old vines’, and Gojer’s Vernatsch vines at Karneid are indeed very old vines. They were planted before their ownership of the site. Entirely Vernatsch, unlike the wines from St. Magdalener, and shows classic pomegranate/herbal flavor.
* Schiava, which is the Italian for 'slave,' presumably from the high yields that the vines can carry, is the Italian name for this variety, but the producers usually use their local name, Vernatsch. The German name for the grape is Trollinger, which is a corruption of 'Tyrolinger,' meaning 'from the Tyrol,' confirming that the variety is indigenous to the area.
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The Whites:
Kerner 'Karneid', Alto Adige Doc
Sauvignon 'Karneid', Alto Adige Doc
weissburgunder ‘Karneid’, Alto Adige Doc
The REds:
St. Magdalener Classico Doc
St. Magdalener Classico ‘Rondell’ DOC
lagrein ‘granat’, Alto Adige Doc
Vernatsch 'Alte Reben'
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more information:
Visit the Gojer Website
Cellar Video Tour with Alto Adige’s ‘Gang of Four’
Schiava serving tip: put the wine in the 'fridge for 30 minutes before serving for best balance.