An Eye-Opening Visit to Marian Farms in California

Our team adventured to Fresno, CA last weekend on a trip with Thad Vogler of Bar Agricole to discover the secret behind the beauty of the Bar Agricole spirits. Well, we should have guessed it and in fact, it should have been no surprise at all! It starts with the quality of the raw materials. 

We met a long time collaborator of Thad’s, Gena Nonini, proprietor of Marian Farms and a third generation Italian American farmer who immediately gravitated to biodynamic farming principles when she took over the family farm in 1990.

Our minds were blown when we learned that Gena biodynamically farms 140 acres of grapes, citrus, almonds, and pecans with a team of 4 people. Her dedication to biodynamics is incredibly inspiring. In her words the philosophy ‘spoke to her heart' and she dove in without reservation.

Gena is farming some of the healthiest looking 75-100 year old Thompson, Palomino, and Muscat vines we’ve ever seen. Half are used to make raisins and the other half are destemmed, crushed, and fermented. All fermentation is wild, and distillation is performed by Gena on a copper pot still fabricated by Christian Carl GmbH that Gena sought out and purchased in 2005.

We were not surprised to learn that Christian Carl is the same stillmaker used by Hans Reisetbauer, another distiller we greatly admire as crafting some of the finest distillates in the world. After having converted her farm into the first Demeter certified vineyard in the United States, Gena later sought Demeter certification of her still and became the first producer of Demeter certified spirits in the United States. 

In Thad’s words, these are true site-specific farmstead spirits. The Brandy, a project that started in 2005, uses only a single ingredient throughout the entire process, the grapes themselves. Nothing added until the final proofing down with well water from the property. Furthermore, the base of all the other products Thad and Gena make together is a grape distillate made in house from the same old vine vineyards and native yeast fermentations.

The curaçao is made from Gena’s own Demeter certified orange peels macerated in the same base spirit with only the addition of Demeter certified sugar sourced from outside the farm. The Gins are made by maceration and distillation of juniper, citrus, and botanicals grown on the property (always fresh, never dried) in the same base spirit, proofed down with well water from the farm, and rested before release. None of the distillates are ever chill-filtered (a process that strips spirits of their natural oils), leaving the resulting spirit full of flavor, esters and texture that are sorely missing in so many spirits on the market today. 

In summary, it is no accident that the entire line from Bar Agricole spirits continues to impress us every time we taste them in a line up with similar products. They are uncompromising in quality, densely packed with flavor, and best enjoyed neat. 

• Demeter certified Biodynamic farming for 30 years, the first in the United States

• Demeter certified Biodynamic production facility, the first in the United States

• onsite well for water 

• sandy loam soil 

• 100 year old vineyards

• making their own grape spirit for maceration beginning with native fermentations

• macerations of citrus and botanicals are all fresh, within 24 hours after harvest 

• use of single Christian Carl copper pot still 

• not chill-filtered, leaving behind more flavor, esters and texture 

• vintage dated releases 

The Legacy of Emidio Pepe

Emidio Pepe remains one of the very top estates in the region, and while grounded in tradition, the family also displays a willingness to be forward-thinking and progressive.

-Eric Guido, Vinous

Every now and again, Oliver remarks on how incredible it is that we represent the Emidio Pepe wines here in the U.S. “When I started importing Italian wine in 1994, I never imagined that we would one day represent [this] iconic Italian producer,” he reminisced in a blog post from October of last year.

While Emidio Pepe has become one of the most beloved producers in today’s boutique wine scene, there wasn’t always a demand for the traditional, environmentally conscious, so-called ‘old school’ styles that prioritize complexity and balance over flash and panache. As Seven Fifty Daily explained in an article from last year, “Pepe’s big break didn’t happen overnight. It’s the result of going against popular—and profitable—trends, as well as an almost bullish bet on quality over quantity.”

And this is quite right - Abruzzo as a wine region is rarely mentioned in the same sentence as Tuscany, Piedmont, or even Sicily, namely because it’s typically associated with value rather than profound examples of some of the best wines in the world. Which makes it all the more unlikely and remarkable that Emidio saw its potential almost 60 years ago. Chiara De Iulis Pepe, granddaughter of Emidio and head winemaker today, has inherited his gift for foresight and innovation and refuses to rest on the laurels the estate has rightly earned. Instead, Eric Guido at Vinous reports, “Her open-minded views and willingness to learn, experiment and travel to understand the tried and true techniques of others are seldom practiced by most Italian winemakers. Ultimately, her goals are not set by what happens tomorrow or a year from now but by what will happen in five to twenty years.”

The Pepe estate is a true icon - the wines have been and continue to be as exciting, layered and haunting as the greatest Pinot Noir, Cabernet or Nebbiolo-based wines and command the attention of somms, restaurateurs and consumers around the world.

Time Marches on at Castell'in Villa

“Time marches to its own beat at Castell’in Villa, where proprietor Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa releases her wines only when she thinks they are ready. “

-Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Renowned Italian critic Ian d’Agata has claimed “Chianti Classico does not get any better or any more traditional than” Castell’in Villa.” Vinous recently called the estate a “reference point among reference points” in the region, adding that “winemaker Federico Staderini continues to do a terrific job in exalting the classicism that makes Castell'in Villa such an iconic estate.”

What exactly makes Castell’in Villa iconic? According to Oliver, who admits he feels honored to represent the estate, it is proprietor Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa’s adherence to tradition combined with her exceptional vineyards that has allowed her to make consistently excellent wine through decades of fads and market swings. 

One example of this is her decision to release the wines only when she and her team deem them ready, correctly reasoning that you can’t rush greatness. And when those wines are ready, they’re among the best wines in the world from anywhere.

The 2019 Chianti Riserva (a new release for Spring 2026) drew rave reviews from Vinous, with Antonio Galloni calling it a “bomb” of “dark cherry, plum, new leather, cedar, and grilled herbs.” He says of the 2020 Chianti Classico, also a new release, “[this is] one of the most alluring, flat-out delicious young wines I have tasted here in some time.”

In a world where patience is increasingly at a premium, one could argue that Castell’in Villa’s long-lived virtues are simply too esoteric for the modern age— dusty tannins, coupled with a complexity of flavor that meanders between sour cherry and savory herbs - that demand full attention of the consumer. But if you know you know: when the Castell’in Villa wines are ready to drink, the experience is transcendent.

Time may pass at a different pace at Castell’in Villa, but it’s most certainly marching forward. The estate continues to inspire us at every turn.

Cavallotto: 2025 Winery of the Year

Selecting her favorite Italian winery of 2025 wasn’t an easy process, but revered wine writer Kerin O’Keefe explained why Barolo’s Cavallotto stood out from the pack this past year.

“Not only did I give its two flagship Barolo Riservas perfect scores, but also the estate’s more affordable, everyday options performed beautifully, as they do every year,” she wrote in  her recent review, naming Cavallotto as the year’s best producer.

Cavallotto is not just an exemplary Italian producer, they are historically important worldwide as the first winery in Barolo to make and bottle wines under their own label. In addition, they were the first to plant grass between rows back in 1975 and proceeded from there to lead the way towards organic viticulture, setting an example for skeptical peers. This work continues today with current proprietors Alfio and Giuseppe Cavallotto who have pushed beyond organic into biodynamic practices, rare in Italy as a whole and even more so in Piedmont.  

O’Keefe is not alone in her assessment of Cavallotto’s superiority. Just last month, Vinous founder and CEO Antonio Galloni reported on the company’s 2025 Icons tasting event which kicked off with an incredible Cavallotto dinner featuring bottles as far back as the initial 1967 Bricco Boschis vintage, as well as the 70s, 80s, 90s, 2000s, and beyond. He refers to the estate as “one of the most historic names in Piedmont," noting “It was a special evening of superb wine, food and the kind of camaraderie that the best wines inspire.”

We’re clearly a bit biased, but in a fine wine industry that’s moving more and more toward transparency coupled with singularity and experiential purity, few wines deliver the goods like Cavallotto. Everyday, new wine drinkers are taking an interest in Barolo’s cru vineyards, recognizing a patchwork of complexity that rivals the great clos of Burgundy. Bricco Boschis is perhaps one of the finest examples and O’Keefe calls it “one of the denomination’s top sites”. 

To top it off Bricco Boschis is essentially a monopole, cementing the estate’s icon status. And the wines are renowned for their longevity, which only adds to their historic status on the world stage!

Alta Langa's Growing Popularity

Anyone else thinking about sparkling wine? If so check out this week’s Wine Review piece featuring Ettore Germano front and center! As the article points out, "Alta Langa was the first location in Italy to embrace Metodo Classico winemaking in the mid-1800s, pre-dating both Franciacorta and Trentodoc, but....it wasn’t until the 1990s that a group of producers banded together to tighten production criteria and seek formal recognition for their region’s Metodo Classico heritage.”

Sergio Germano was one of those producers and we can proudly say that he played a major role in Alta Langa’s ascent to DOCG status.

With the winery’s role in history cemented, we can also proudly say that the wines are delicious. We love the Germano Alta Langa selection because of how it reflects their environment, but also the effort it took to achieve their excellent balance and fine mousse. Grown at a high altitude in limestone rich soil, the emphasis is on freshness and minerality, however Sergio’s talented winemaking ensures it is balanced with savory, autolytic notes. All traits we've come to expect from great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir-based wines (like Champagne!).

The Wine Review also points out: "When you can find them, bottles of Alta Langa often sell for between $30 and $50, a remarkably competitive price point for wines that are always vintage dated."

So next time you’re shopping for a bottle of bubbly, consider a few offerings from Germano in Alta Langa!

Benvenuto Tricerchi Brunello

“Benvenuto Brunello sounds like a simple greeting, but, in the true spirit of Italian hospitality, it is an invitation,” writes Jessica Dupuy in her recent article for Forbes about the 2021 Brunello vintage; “It is not only ‘welcome, new vintage,’ but ‘welcome in’ to everyone who will help decide what Brunello means right now.”

That means the foreign press.

This past November at the Benvenuto Brunello premiere, writers and critics were invited to taste the 2021 releases at the region’s annual event. According to Dupuy’s own description, perhaps we should say Benvenuto Tricerchi as well, as the event confirmed the accent of Castello Tricerchi as one of the top winemakers in the region.

Calling the estate “one to watch,” Dupuy also notes winemaker Tommaso Squarcia’s preference for organic farming, a more fresh-handed style, and delicate aromatics rather than weight. In her mind, the quality of the 2021 Castello Tricerchi Brunello is the direct result of “a new generation unafraid of restraint. Detailed, precise, and full of promise.”

Forbes isn’t alone, however, in recognizing the rise of Tricerchi and Tommaso’s prowess as one of Brunello’s most exciting young winemakers. Writing for JancisRobinson.com, Walter Speller describes “a kind of magic…that I would have never expected under these conditions,” noting “there is much more to come from this estate.”

As for his thoughts on the 2021 Castello Tricerchi Brunello: it “shoots the estate straight to the top” of the region.

Vinous’s Eric Guido concurs, giving both the 2021 Brunello, along with the 2021 Brunello A.D. 1441 (from a prime parcel in the middle of the Vigna del Velo) a pair of 94 point scores, focusing on the wine’s “silky smooth” texture and “polished red berry fruits that saturate gradually.”

While we are always excited when our producers receive accolades from the press we also take the praise with perspective. We’ve long believed that the rest of the world would eventually see Tommaso’s talent and while somewhat gratifying, we find that it is even more satisfying to bring these wines to the US market and represent what we believe to be a visionary in the world of Brunello., even before the scores started to roll in.

With the Benvenuto Brunello premiere now behind us and the wines due to arrive in 2026 (and demand through the roof), we’re looking forward to saying a proper welcome to the new release!

The Swiss Army Knife of Italian Wine

In a glowing review from last week, the Wine Enthusiast referred to the 2024 Le Fraghe Bardolino as the “answer to the eternal ‘what pairs with everything’ question.”

We’re glad someone finally noticed because the versatility of this wine has been a staff secret for years!

Bardolino, with its Pinot Noir-meets-Sangiovese style, goes with just about every type of cuisine imaginable—from appetizers (cold or hot), to vegetarian options, to roasted meats, and beyond!

Showing juicy red berry notes, a lighter body, and fresh acidity, Bardolino is the Swiss army knife of red wine: you can chill it, or drink it room temperature. It’s great in the summer for the patio, yet warming with spice and brooding fruit for a cold winter’s night. It’s light and refreshing enough to drink as a cocktail wine for happy hour, but somehow robust enough to hold up against a pork chop or anything off the grill.

Made in the Veneto from vineyards planted as far back as 1992, Le Fraghe’s Bardolino is one of the best we’ve ever tasted. Certified organic, this blend of 80% Corvina and 20% Rondinella spends just 7-8 days macerating with the skins for a more delicate style of red that presents as soft and silky on the palate while retaining acidity. It’s similar to the region’s more famous Valpolicella wine, but lower in alcohol (and more chugable in our opinion).

Winemaker and owner Matilde Poggi is a Bardolino specialist who has been making it for over 40 years and is an involved and vocal member of the trade association that represents independent growers of Italy. She suggests pairing the wine with a cheese plate, so add that to the list!

A Visit From The Great Ciro Biondi

Ciro Biondi’s legacy as both a winemaker and star in the Oliver McCrum portfolio cannot be overstated.

Not only was he the first Sicilian producer we began working with roughly 20 years ago, Ciro’s wines have helped drive awareness of the Etna DOC across the U.S. and around the world.

As Eric Asimov noted in the New York Times back in 2012, Ciro Biondi isn’t part of the new wave of winemakers coming out of Sicily. His family has been making wine on Etna since the early 1800s, long before the DOC was even established in 1968, and decades before most modern wine drinkers could point to the region on a map. Family records show bottles of Biondi wine were sold more than a century ago.

While Ciro’s modernization of the family business began in 1999, when he and his wife, Stef, restored six hectares of his family’s vineyards and built a small winery, his Sicilian roots run deep. Since then, the two have put everything they have into making some of the best wines in the region, winning over critics and somms around the world, and making endless friends and fans in the process.

But it wasn’t always a foregone conclusion. Ciro’s grandfather was the most recent Biondi to produce and bottle wine from the family vineyards and his financial struggles coupled with backbreaking work were not lost on his son, Ciro’s father. He ultimately decided to pursue a career with the Italian government and he mandated that Ciro also go the professional route (he has a degree in architecture; some of his works were published in art and design magazines).

However the lure of the vines and the land was too strong and Ciro ultimately made his way back to Etna and began the rehabilitation of the family land and winery (an old palmetto, the historic winemaking facility).  

When we received the news that Ciro would be taking a step back from sales trips and spending more time at the winery, we knew that it might be the last time we see him in California for quite a while! Over the past two weeks, across the state as well as in New York, Ciro has been the toast of dinners, tastings, receptions, and get-togethers among friends and colleagues who gathered to celebrate his legacy. Countless well wishers turned out on both coasts to taste the once in a lifetime bottling, Centenario (translation ‘centennial’; a tribute to his grandfather) as well as new vintages of the crus San Nicolo, Cisterna Fuori and Pianta and current releases of the stunning Outis Bianco and Rosso. Per usual, Ciro didn’t disappoint (and neither did the wines!).

While Ciro may not be hitting the road in the near future, we’ll see him again on our next trip to Sicily, and we look forward to enjoying the wines now and for years to come!

Introducing Piccolo Goccio

Today we’re introducing Piccolo Goccio—a new collection of wines made from indigenous grape varieties throughout Italy. These are the wines you would likely drink at lunch in a quaint trattoria, or while sitting in a café in the late afternoon. Piccolo Goccio means 'little sip’ in Italian, but—given their outstanding quality and reasonable pricing—we plan on consuming them in large quantities!

The perfect by-the-glass, no-nonsense, table wine continues to be the holy grail for many of us in the industry. Let’s be honest, as much as we love to indulge in the rare and extravagant realm, it’s the go-to, reliable selections that are often the most elusive for enjoyment year in and year out; the wines we pair with Tuesday night takeout, or a weekend pool party with friends.

Given how many incredible producers we work with, we decided it was time to showcase their best work via Piccolo Goccio. Each wine was chosen for its accessibility to food pairing and its utility for daily drinking. From the juicy and quaffable Barbera d’Asti, to the rustic Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, to the zippy Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige, to the crushable Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and charming Sangiovese from Montalcino, all are produced without oak to translate terroir and emphasize freshness.

We also considered their environmental impact, opting for lighter bottles, no capsules, and eco-friendly labels made from recycled materials and environmentally friendly fiber.

Our team has been exploring Italy for over 30 years, always with an eye peeled for new producers and wines. Our idea is to bring you a wine for every day of the week so you too can enjoy drinking your way around Italy, whether you’re cooking at home, ordering takeout, or sitting in the backyard after a long day at work -  this selection of Italian wines represents just that!

Stay tuned for specific details about each wine.

Icons of Italy

When I started importing Italian wine in 1994, I never imagined that we would one day represent iconic Italian producers like Cavallotto, Emidio Pepe, Poderi e Cantine Oddero, and Castell’in Villa. Doing so gives me enormous pleasure. I call these estates iconic because they have been making excellent, age-worthy wines in a consistent style for generations.

All of these family-owned wineries have been excelling for more than 50 years; Oddero started bottling wine in 1878, almost 150 years ago, Cavallotto started in 1948, just after the Second War, Emidio Pepe followed in 1964, and Castell’in Villa in 1971. When they started out, none of the appellations they represent were particularly well-known for fine wine, particularly in comparison with famous French appellations like the Médoc or Burgundy, but they believed in their terroirs, and now they are famous too. This is in no small part due to the work of these producers, and others like them. Their more age-worthy bottlings improve in the cellar for many decades. I grew up in the wine trade drinking noble French wine, and for most of the twentieth century there was no doubt that Italian wine was thought to be in the shadow of French wine, but that is no longer true. Italian wine has come into its own, and it is still improving.

The whole world of fine wine-making, Italy included, was tempted by a more flashy style of making wine in the 1980s and 1990s, a style promoted by the wine writer Robert Parker in his journal The Wine Advocate. These wines were ripe, flattering, and drinkable young, very often aged in new, small barrels, and (in Italy, at least) sometimes included non-traditional grape varieties. None of these iconic wineries gave in to this temptation, although selling their authentic wines during this time was more difficult. The great majority of wineries that did give in have since realized their mistake, and have returned to the traditional ways. It is now obvious that the careful use of traditional winemaking methods, such as long macerations or aging wine in large, neutral barrels, can produce outstanding wines, particularly when used with grapes from great vineyards; all four of these estates are particularly blessed in that regard. I find it very satisfying that such traditional artisanal products are so successful in this modern era.

What are the future icons? Other great small estates are making great wine in these three traditional areas, of course, and there are whole regions of Italy that have only come forward in the last few years, particularly in the south. I can’t wait to find out!

-Oliver McCrum

Catching Up With Maria Niedrist

Tucked into the picturesque hills of Alto Adige (also known as Südtirol), at the base of the towering Dolomites, is the Niedrist family winery—a generational enterprise that has been producing wine for almost 200 years. Grown in the cool mountain climate, the Niedrist whites are crystalline and haunting, and the reds are delicate and graceful, reflective of the incredible care that goes into producing them.

In 1989, Ignaz and Elisabeth Niedrist took over the family business and made several significant changes, adding new vineyards to the core operation and expanding the repertoire of varieties significantly. Through sustainable cultivation resulting in impeccable quality, Niedrist has thrived for the last four decades, with the next generation taking over its share of the work.

Maria Niedrist and her brother Johannes are now hands-on with harvesting and production in the cellar, melding their own philosophies and insight with the practices of their parents. Fall always feels like the right time to talk about wines from the Alto Adige - they are the perfect pairings for cooling weather, heartier dishes and holiday meals. Textural and aromatic whites and lightly tannic reds are exactly what we want in our glass this time of year. We recently sat down with Maria, who had just finished with the 2025 harvest, and she caught us up on all the latest developments at Niedrist.

OM: What does a typical day in Alto Adige look like for you?

Maria: It really depends on the season. I think it’s the most important factor influencing our life. We are very close to the Dolomites and we’re living in a small town with no real big cities around us. So the things we do are strictly related to the weather. Our family life is cycling around these seasons. There are the vegetational summer months, then harvest, then it gets a little calmer and we can travel a little bit. So it just depends on which day you choose and when.

OM: How about your brother?

Maria: For Johannes, he goes directly to the winery in the morning, and into the cellars. I tend to go directly into the office right now. We’re always switching. When pruning season starts, we’re out in the vineyards quite often. During the summer months, we’re out the vineyards all day long. There isn’t much time for sitting in front of a screen. Email has to be done in the evening.

OM: Have you fully taken over the winemaking now, or is your dad still hands-on?

Maria: The winemaking itself starts by deciding when we harvest because that’s the most crucial part. That’s what I do. I do the sampling, analyzing, and deciding the day we start harvesting. The first winemaking steps in the cellar are done by Johannes, my father, and me, working together. The next production steps like racking are done by my brother, and I help fill the barrels while my dad cycles around and checks in on us.

OM: How long have you both been involved in the winemaking?

Maria: This is the third harvest for Johannes and the fifth for me.

OM: What was the 2025 vintage like for you?

Maria: It was incredibly busy. We typically only harvest in the morning and then we bring the grapes into the cellars, but this year we were harvesting the entire day. We started at 7 AM and stopped at 6 PM, which was crazy for us and our harvest team. We work with a lot of older people from our village, who have great expertise, but they get tired! They’re not typically working the whole day.

OM: How long was harvest?

Maria: Typically it takes us five weeks, but this year we had to do it in three, which was crazy. We had ten days of higher temperatures in August, then the last ripening days before harvest were warm followed by warm nights. That made the ripening process much faster. We have two locations where we grow most of our grapes and usually they ripen about ten days apart, but this year it all happened in less than a week. Everything was ripe at the same moment.

OM: So you had to move fast!

Maria: Yes, with warm nights the grapes start to lose their stability. Then you have problems with their health, so you really have to be fast. But we were fast, so we are very happy with the results. The musts—the first wines—are beautiful. The flavors are vibrant and beautiful with lower alcohol levels because we had to harvest some of the plots a little earlier. In general, I think the wines are better like this.

OM: How does it affect the whites versus the reds?

Maria: We had to harvest the Pinot Bianco (Weissburgunder) first because it was going to lose stability, then the Pinot Nero is always a little tricky. It’s also our dad’s favorite grape, so we have a strict focus on that. Then the Chardonnay, which is very close to my heart because I worked in Burgundy. The PH is always so important to the stability of Chardonnay, so I was closely monitoring that.

OM: Does everyone in the family have their own personal favorite grape?

Maria: We all definitely have our own agenda!

OM: Looking at your social media posts over the growing season has been so inspiring, mainly because of how idyllic the environment looks with the mountains surrounding you. It’s very romantic.

Maria: I try to honestly show what’s happening around us, but I’m the only one doing this stuff, and I’m highly critical (laughs). During harvest it’s tough because you have sticky fingers, so I have to stop and pull off my gloves to capture it. Content creation has become more important, but I don’t create the content, the content is there before my eyes.

Check out the Weingut Niedrist Instagram profile here

Two New Releases From Gotha

During our trip to Italy earlier this year, we had the chance to spend the day with Ergin Allko from Gotha Spiriti Nobili in Bologna, as well as preview two of his latest products: the Bitter Allko and the Rosso Vermouth “DOK '61.”

As a bartender and proprietor who emigrated from to Italy from Albania when he was just 18 years old, the spirits are infused with the duality of both countries, as well as historical significance and nostalgia.

All of the Gotha spirits utilize individual infusions of plants and herbs (many of them locally grown), in addition to purified seawater from the Adriatic Sea—both a flavorful and symbolic ingredient as it’s the body of water separating Italy from Albania.

In the case of Elgin’s new Bitter Allko, the seawater enhances the taste perception of the other botanicals, which include: timut pepper, bitter orange and grapefruit peel, wormwood, china, gentian, black pepper and cherry pepper (pimento)—all of which are dried. 

The new DOK ’61 Vermouth is an identity statement from Ergin as bartender, distiller, and citizen of both Italy and Albania. For inspiration he calls on the history of communist Albania at the distinct moment in time when Chinese allies introduced a fabric called ‘DOK’ - the year 1961. It was durable and used to manufacture uniforms for proletarian workers, and Ergin in turn dedicated this vermouth to the working class.

Using a blend of 95% Zibibbo with 5% Frappato as a base wine (both sourced from Sicily), Elgin adds in chinotto peel, cinchona, rabarbaro, wormwood, star anise (essential oil), dandelion root and pimento, and of course the trademark purified seawater from the Adriatic Sea. He tops everything off with a small amount of plum distillate, a unique addition which increases roundness and depth.

Our team has tasted hundreds of aperitivos, digestivos, and bitter liqueurs from all over Italy and we can honestly say that few of them are as unique and innovative as those from Gotha. Ergin’s masterful blending of his delicate infusions is truly awe inspiring, and no matter how often we taste through his portfolio, we’re constantly taken aback by the quality of his spirits.

Both the Bitter Allko and DOK '61 Vermouth are available to order now! We can’t wait to see what you all think!

Campania In The Headlines

As you likely already know, the team at Oliver McCrum has been very excited about the wines of Campania for well over a decade. In his most recent article for Forbes, Paul Caputo hedges that mindset even further, writing: "To call Campania the most exciting wine region in Italy is a big statement. Depending on your metrics however, it may well be true."

With producers like Capolino Perlingieri, Ciro Picariello, Contrade di Taurasi, La Sibilla, Laura de Vito, Michele Perillo, Reale, and Villa Dora to choose from, it's easy to see how someone could draw that conclusion! Caputo succinctly summarizes: "For sheer breadth and diversity of both terroir and native varieties, no Italian region feels more engaging, or more exciting, right now."

Click here to read the full article!

Grifalco Comes to Town

We're very excited to welcome Grifalco into town this week for a number of very special events! Check out the schedule below and join us if you're able!

Saturday 8/30 - Solano Cellars @vbscwine 5 - 8 PM

Sunday 8/31 - A16 Napa a16napa - BTG specials & food pairings

Monday 9/1 - A16 SF @a16sf - BTG specials & food pairings

Wednesday 9/3 - La Dolce Vita @ladolcevitabevhills - Featured flight & pairings

Thursday 9/4 - Agnes Pasadena @agnes_pasadena - Featured flight & pairings

Friday 9/5 - Due Fiori Long Beach @duefiori.lbc - BTG & bottle happy hour!

More info throughout the week via our Instagram stories! Looking forward to seeing you soon.

Who Needs Chartreuse?

As Lisa Futterman points out in her latest article for The Alcohol Professor, the “cool kids love Chartreuse” right now.

In recent years, supply problems have made Chartreuse harder and harder to come by so as a favor to her readers, Futterman lists several alternatives for cocktail mixing and straight sipping, two of which are part of our spirits portfolio—Bordiga’s Centum Herbis and Alpe’s Genepy—and we are excited to dig into her findings.

The Bordiga Centum Herbis is a fantastic straight sipper with its Alpine freshness and complex recipe of dozens of herbs, but is also cocktail game changer - try it in a Bordiga Last Word or fizz. The Alpe Genepy—as Futterman points out—plays very well with gin and we think it can more than hold its own as a highball.

Futterman also correctly highlights the importance of the Alpine botanical genepy in a Chartreuse substitute and so we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the Bordiga Genepy, another superb Alpine spirit. Its high toned floral and citrus notes make it a perfect match for a white negroni.

Check out our Make a Cocktail page for more recipes for all of these Alpine gems!

Vinous Weighs in on 2022 + 2023 Chianti Classico

Istine’s Angela Fronti featured in Vinous’s Chianti Classico: Riding Out The Storm

Noting the weather challenges that Chianti Classico producers faced in 2022 and 2023, Antonio Galloni’s latest report for Vinous highlights the producers who managed to ride out the storm . “Those who were able to cope with those challenges turned out beautiful wines,” Galloni writes; “But there is no getting past the simple fact that quality is inconsistent across the board.”

One of the producers heralded by Galloni for quality in both vintages was Istine, which is no surprise. Angela Fronti is one of the most talented winemakers in the region and continues to lead the Chianti Classico youth moment. Galloni rated all of the wines from Istine highly, adding that Istine’s decision to pick “micro-blocks” across all vineyards based on ripeness accounted for the quality. Angela pointed out that Istine’s traditional strategy was to pick vineyard by vineyard, but was forced to pivot due to 2023’s growing conditions.

Another high point of Galloni’s round-up was the fresh crop of reviews for Castell’in Villa. “This is fabulous set of new releases,” he wrote; “Winemaker Federico Staderini continues to do a terric job in exalting the classicism that makes Castell'in Villa such an iconic estate. The 2020 Chianti Classico is one of the most alluring, flat-out delicious young wines I have tasted here in some time.”He adds that the 2019 Chianti Classico Riserva is “a heady, explosive Riserva that hits all the right notes.”

All of these wines are en route to the United States now - stay tuned!

Beautiful New Packaging From Bernard

Exciting news from Bernard! These beautiful new labels are now adorning all bottles of Bernard Barathier Amaro, and Genzianella and Abricot Liqueurs. Also, if you're not following @liquoribernard we suggest doing so immediately. The videos of the family collecting herbs in the Piedmontese Alps are too spectacular to miss!

More Fun Summer Wines

Another great wine choice for summer is just about anything from Friuli producer I Clivi, as we were reminded last month when winemaker Mario Zanusso rolled into town to present his wines. Mario is a ferociously intelligent, thoughtful wine producer with a deceptively calm, low-key demeanor when you first meet him; it is only as you talk to him that his passion for his work, and his deep understanding of it, emerge.

His wines are exactly the same. It takes a little time for them to show their stuff, but they are brilliantly made, restrained, energetic, expressive and deeply rewarding. Check out his Ribolla Gialla and Friulano for examples of that brilliance, and for a deeper dive into I Clivi, check out this incredible overview of I Clivi’s vineyards, production methods, and soil types we just added to the website.

Summer Wine Starter Pack

We fully agree with Mr. Asimov that the ColleStefano Verdicchio should be part of any aspiring wine lover's starter pack. It's a wine that has led many of us to the Marche and to Italy as a whole—a timeless and perennial white that keeps us coming back for more with every vintage.

It's a testament to the tremendous skill of winemaker Fabio Marchionni, who makes less than four thousand cases of this Verdicchio annually. The romance isn't the point, though; this wine is racy, vivid, and excellent with all kinds of seafood dishes, delivering incredible quality for the dollar.

It is fermented and matured entirely in stainless steel (no oak) and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Use it like you might use a Sauvignon Blanc, because Verdicchio has some of the same herbal aroma and flavor as Sauvignon. It is a great aperitif, too, with olives and toasted almonds.

Giacomo Oddero, 1926-2025

Giacomo Oddero, the patriarch of the branch of the Oddero family that owns and runs Podere e Cantine Oddero, recently passed away. We would like to extend our sympathy to his family for their loss.

Giacomo was an iconic figure in the town of Alba, and the region called the Langhe. He was not just a Barolo producer; he and his wife ran a pharmacy on the main street in Alba, a pharmacy that was mentioned in the famous Beppe Fenoglio book about the area, La Malora; he was vital to the development of the local aqueduct; and he created the Alba center for the study of the other famous local product, white truffles.

As a winemaker, Giacomo vigorously continued the winemaking tradition started in the nineteenth century by his Oddero forebears. He used a group of vineyards, several very well-known, near the winery to make his regular Barolo bottling, but also had the foresight to buy parcels of an extraordinary range of different high-quality single sites in other parts of the appellation (and in Barbaresco), including Vignarionda, Bussia, Brunate, and others. Giacomo participated in more than 80 harvests, the first of which used ox-carts to bring the grapes to the winery; he saw Barolo evolve from a locally known specialty to an internationally famous fine wine. What changes he must have seen in his long life! We are grateful to him for his lifetime of work, achievements and contributions to the winemaking world.

Gazzetta d’Alba Obituary

-Oliver McCrum