Southern Italian Whites For Spring
Michele Boscia
They say great minds think alike, which is why we were thrilled to share a similar mindset this past week with our esteemed colleague at the New York Times, Eric Asimov.
Writing about specific, under-the-radar wines he particularly enjoys, Asimov mentioned two white varieties that are the quintessence of Southern Italy’s springtime drinking: carricante and fiano, respectively.
Describing carricante as a “saline treat,” Asimov referred specifically to the wines of Etna Bianco, calling them “among Italy’s finest whites.” We couldn’t agree more, as the salinity of carricante from Etna is the perfect pairing for any sort of tinned fish, cheese plate, or antipasto dishes you wanna throw at it. Not only is it salty and high in acidity, carricante can be quite lush with fruit, giving it a complexity that is unrivaled by many white wines at this price point.
When picking his favorites, Asimov name-dropped the great Ciro Biondi, whose Outis and Pianto Etna Biancos stand among the best carricante wines from Sicily. Both entice with aromas of wet stones, hints of flowers, peach, apricot and herbs, with the Pianto adding lushness and nutty notes. They offer the full spectrum of flavor for Spring, whether you’re sitting on your patio or cooking in the kitchen.
Asimov also mentions his love for the Campanian grape fiano, and how he’s recently come back around to appreciating it after an absence. What was the wine that rekindled his passion? “A 2022 Ciro Picariello from the Avellino region of Campania did the trick,” he wrote, adding: “I can’t think of the last white wine I had that tasted so thoroughly of almonds. It was also textured, refreshing and delicious, and it reminded me that I had loved fiano and could again.”
Fiano is a distinctive, indigenous Campanian variety and Ciro Picariello produces a textbook example. Pale yellow in color, initially aromatic, then moving into flavors of citrus with Mediterranean herbs (especially sage), there are few white varietals that combine utility and affordability with this level of quality. In reference to Asimov’s own tasting notes, all you need is a bowl of almonds and you’ve got the perfect fiano wine pairing!