Salicutti
about salicutti:
Salicutti is an outstanding small wine estate on a ridge just south-east of the town of Montalcino, past the historic Biondi-Santi estate. The property was bought by Francesco Leanza in 1990, and was planted to Sangiovese by him in 1994. In 2015 Francesco sold to the Eichbauer family, who are Michelin-starred restaurateurs from Munich, and who had been keen customers of the winery.
The relatively high elevation of the three vineyards around the cellar (on average they are 450 meters, or 1,500 feet, above sea level) gives the wine particular finesse and energy; production is very limited, not more than 15,000 bottles per year, depending on the harvest. Leanza was one of the early organic producers in Montalcino, and the Eichbauers have gone further, transitioning the vineyards to biodynamic agriculture. Winemaking is essentially traditional, native yeast fermentations with long macerations (over 30 days, typically) followed by extended aging in beautiful barrels made in the Alto Adige by Mittelberger. There are some modern techniques used to attain a traditional goal as well, such as the use of an excellent modern sorting table. The Eichbauers have continued the elegant, restrained style set by Francesco, and have even moved to aging entirely in larger barrels; Francesco used to start the wines in puncheons.
Some notes on Salicutti from Kerin O'Keefe's wonderful book on Brunello di Montalcino:
'If you appreciate the subtle elegance and complexity of great Burgundy, this is your Brunello: luminous and garnet-colored with earthy flavors and a silky palate. Proprietor Francesco Leanza makes his graceful Brunellos with organic farming methods, wild yeasts, and as little intervention as possible in the cellar...[he] ended up choosing an ideal location that has allowed him such great fruit that it need only be guided rather than forced [in the cellar]...These are some of the best Brunellos…'
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the wines:
Brunello di Montalcino
This estate Brunello is made of Sangiovese fruit from all three of the vineyards around the property, Sorgente, Piaggione and Teatro. It is fermented in cement tanks, using native yeasts; maceration is fairly long, generally over a month. The wine is aged in large oak botti, one of 40 HL and one of 10 HL, both made by Mittelberger, an excellent barrel-maker from the Alto Adige. The wine is aged for about 40 months in barrel before bottling.
Classic Salicutti notes of red fruits, including wild strawberry and red-currant; angelica; hints of cedar and sandalwood; on the palate, fine, elegant, long, almost reminiscent of Pinot Noir in texture but with fresher acidity. These wines will certainly benefit from aging in the bottle but they are surprisingly drinkable when young, too.
Brunello di Montalcino ‘Sorgente’
Made from Sangiovese grown in the ‘Sorgente’ (‘Spring’) vineyard. Bright mid-red; warm, inviting aroma and flavor of fruit (red plum, red currant), herbs, spices, and balsamic notes such as cedar and tobacco. Lovely texture, built to age but not at all hard when young; very long, very complex. Typical Sangiovese freshness balances the fruit-cake concentration of the wine.
Brunello di Montalcino ‘Piaggione’
Made from Sangiovese grown in the Piaggione vineyard. Beautiful bright middling red; aroma and flavor of red berries, herbs (angelica), and botanicals like sandalwood; texture is almost Burgundian, the combination of fine dark-chocolate tannins and fresh Sangiovese acidity is long and mouthwatering. If you can stand not to drink it now it will age for 15-20 years in finer vintages.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva ‘Teatro’
Brunello doesn’t always live up to it’s high reputation, but Salicutti’s example from the ‘Teatro’ vineyard is superb. Classic bright middling red color; distinctive aroma and flavor of red fruits, spices, cedar/sandalwood, and expensive leather. Beautiful texture, very long finish, complex and intriguing wine that opens up like a peacock’s tail on the finish, fresh acidity balancing the richness and intensity. Drink now or age for 15-20 years.