Marangona
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All organic viticulture, certified and labeled
No additives used during winemaking
Historic producer - over four generations
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About Marangona:
The first time I tasted a good Lugana, many years ago in Verona, I remember being surprised; it was said to be made of Trebbiano, but it was delicious. I hate Trebbiano, as a rule. It turns out that Lugana is in fact made of a kind of Verdicchio, which is known near Lake Garda as Trebbiano di Lugana or Turbiana, and I do love Verdicchio.
The Lugana appellation is around the base of Lake Garda, one of the most beautiful places in Italy. The soils here in the heart of the appellation are calcareous clay and rich in minerals. The altitude is about that of the Lake itself, which is to say about 65 meters (200 feet) above sea level. In spite of this, the wines can show excellent fresh acidity (altitude normally confers acidity, as for example in the wines of Verdicchio di Matelica. In Lugana there is a bright, zesty character even without it).
There are very few producers of great Lugana, much of the wines here being drunk by tourists. It can be excellent though, with flavors of almond, herbs, and apricot; vivid and distinctive. Much Lugana is compromised by the obvious addition of residual sweetness, to balance the grape's natural acidity. I don't think this is a good idea.
'Marangona' refers to the name of a bell that was rung to signify the end of the workday. Alessandro Cutolo is the young owner and winemaker, the fourth generation to run the estate. Alessandro is a modest, friendly man whose clean but not intrusive style of winemaking is very much to my taste. I will be drinking a lot of this.
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The Wines:
Lugana DOC
Marangona’s Lugana is 100% 'Turbiana,' or Trebbiano di Lugana, grown using a 'double arc' cordon. The grapes are picked by hand into small boxes, pressed as whole clusters, and fermented at low temperature. Once fermentation is complete the wine is aged on its fine lees then bottled early in the following year. No oak or malolactic fermentation.
The wine shows a pale straw color, with aromas of almonds, herbs, citrus and a touch of apricot. Its flavors are completely consistent with excellent acidity, fresh and long on the palate. I love this as an aperitif, or as a broadly useful table wine with roast chicken or fish.
‘Tre Campane’ Lugana DOC
Tre Campane means 'Three Bells,' signifying the three communes of Lugana where the grapes for this cuvee are grown. The estate vineyards are all in the historic part of the Lugana appellation, in the communes of Pozzolengo, Sirmione and Peschiera, no more than half a mile from Lake Garda. The vines used here are slightly older than those used for the entry-level Lugana. Alessandro harvests the grapes in two parts, 50% in mid-September and the remainder in mid-October at full ripening, allowing him to make a wine with excellent fresh acidity and added body and complexity. Once fermentation is complete the wine is aged on its fine lees, then bottled early in the following year. No oak or malolactic fermentation. In other words, similar to the regular Lugana but with the volume turned up.
Pale straw color in the glass, with aromas and flavors of almonds, herbs, citrus and a hint of apricot. Long, medium-bodied, with very fresh acidity. Bright enough to work before dinner, but would be excellent with salmon or many different kinds of pasta.
‘Cemento’ Lugana DOC
Cemento is Marangona’s top bottling of Lugana, made of the fruit from their oldest vineyards. Originally this bottling was partly aged in wooden barrels, but Alessandro isn’t a big fan of oak, so he bought some high-quality conical tanks made of food-grade cement to experiment with*. Cement tanks were common say 50 years ago, then were largely replaced by stainless steel; in the last few years, however, the benefits of cement are being appreciated again, particularly when it is unlined (as these are) and can ‘breathe.’ Alessandro was very happy with this experiment and decided to use this fermentation method to make his flagship wine. He had always used the word ‘cement’ (cemento) to describe the experiment, and now it’s the name of the bottled wine too.
Cemento shows a bright pale straw color in the glass, with aromas and flavors of mint, white peach, apricot and sage. The texture is outstanding, with richness from the skin contact balancing the zesty acidity of old-vine Turbiana. An excellent white wine.
*made by the French company Nomblot, the leading producer.
Chiaretto, Riviera del Garda Classico DOC
‘Chiaretto’ is derived from the word ‘chiaro’ meaning ‘pale’ and is required by DOC law on rosato wines produced on the shores of Lake Garda in the Lombardia region. Marangona’s is a blend of Groppello, Marzemino, Barbera and Sangiovese. A direct press, only the free run juice is used. Aged completely in stainless steel. Pretty, light, salty, with notes of red berry fruit and flowers.