Marangona
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All organic viticulture, certified and labeled
No additives used during winemaking
Historic producer - over four generations
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About Marangona:
The first time I tasted a good Lugana, many years ago in Verona, I remember being surprised; it was said to be made of Trebbiano, but it was delicious. I hate Trebbiano, as a rule. It turns out that Lugana is in fact made of a kind of Verdicchio, which is known near Lake Garda as Trebbiano di Lugana or Turbiana, and I do love Verdicchio.
The Lugana appellation is around the base of Lake Garda, one of the most beautiful places in Italy. The soils here in the heart of the appellation are calcareous clay and rich in minerals. The altitude is about that of the Lake itself, which is to say about 65 meters (200 feet) above sea level. In spite of this, the wines can show excellent fresh acidity (altitude normally confers acidity, as for example in the wines of Verdicchio di Matelica. In Lugana there is a bright, zesty character even without it).
There are very few producers of great Lugana, much of the wines here being drunk by tourists. It can be excellent though, with flavors of almond, herbs, and apricot; vivid and distinctive. Much Lugana is compromised by the obvious addition of residual sweetness, to balance the grape's natural acidity. I don't think this is a good idea.
'Marangona' refers to the name of a bell that was rung to signify the end of the workday. Alessandro Cutolo is the young owner and winemaker, the fourth generation to run the estate. Alessandro is a modest, friendly man whose clean but not intrusive style of winemaking is very much to my taste. I will be drinking a lot of this.
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The Wines:
Lugana DOC
Marangona’s Lugana is 100% 'Turbiana,' or Trebbiano di Lugana, grown using a 'double arc' cordon. The grapes are picked by hand into small boxes, pressed as whole clusters, and fermented at low temperature. Once fermentation is complete the wine is aged on its fine lees then bottled early in the following year. No oak or malolactic fermentation.
The wine shows a pale straw color, with aromas of almonds, herbs, citrus and a touch of apricot. Its flavors are completely consistent with excellent acidity, fresh and long on the palate. I love this as an aperitif, or as a broadly useful table wine with roast chicken or fish.
Chiaretto, Riviera del Garda Classico DOC
‘Chiaretto’ is derived from the word ‘chiaro’ meaning ‘pale’ and is required by DOC law on rosato wines produced on the shores of Lake Garda in the Lombardia region. Marangona’s is a blend of Groppello, Marzemino, Barbera and Sangiovese. A direct press, only the free run juice is used. Aged completely in stainless steel. Pretty, light, salty, with notes of red berry fruit and flowers.