Barolo Season Is Here

November is an exciting time of the year for us at Oliver McCrum because, not only is it the start of the holidays, it’s the beginning of Barolo season. For as much as we love Barolo, and as important as Nebbiolo is for our portfolio year-round, it’s a wine that simply shines when the weather is cold and damp, and the food is warm and heavy. 

Hence, when our team met up this past week to taste through our entire inventory of Barolo wines, you could feel the giddiness in the room. The Fall air was crisp, the room was full of cheer, and our teeth were stained purple from all the tannins. 

Much of our current inventory is based on 2018 and 2020 - top-notch vintages with cooler growing seasons. They resulted in wines that are classic stylistically, but without the immediate opulent ripeness that leads to high scores from the press. As a result, we often need to be our own cheerleaders.

As our own Michele Boscia said during the tasting, “2018 and 2020 are the vintages that I’ve enjoyed the most in recent years, and it’s unfortunate that more people don’t see the beauty in them. They’re elegant, and not so aggressively tannic that you can’t drink them young.”

When it comes to the “best” vintages of Barolo, often times they’re also the most structured, meaning consumers will need to wait ten years or more before enjoying their bottles. In the current market, we’re finding most wine drinkers aren’t quite that patient and would prefer something drinkable in the short term. We think the 2018 and 2020 vintages are just that.

There are numerous critics out there who agree with us as well, particularly Antonio Galloni from Vinous. Let’s take Cavallotto as an example. The 2018 Cavolotto Barolo is one of the best vintages we’ve tasted in years. Our entire staff was smitten with its soft, supple red fruit flavors and gentle tannins compared to some of the beefier vintages in years past. Galloni agreed, writing that the 2018 “is an especially serious edition of the Barolo” with its “blast of sweet dark cherry, menthol, licorice, gravel and incense.”

Everyone loved the Castello di Verduno wines that were loaded with berries, mineral notes, tangy acidity, and rose petals—all the classic Nebbiolo flavor with a silky texture. Galloni was also complimentary of these vintages, writing: “Castello di Verduno is one of many Piedmont estates that remain under the radar. Readers who enjoy classically built Barbarescos and Barolos will definitely want to check out these new releases.”

The single cru Barolos from Brezza had our team buzzing as well. We all really gravitated to the Castellero in particular, with its cherry-heavy flavors and immediate appeal. We’re very excited about bringing these to the public. Galloni also shared our enthusiasm, adding: “Enzo Brezza's 2018s are quite good. There is a renewed sense of energy in the cellar that is palpable. The Castellero is another impressive wine in this range.”

Oddero’s single crus also showed quite well. Adam Davidow from our LA team said the wines really surprised him, especially the Valero. “It jumps out of the glass with a balance of sweetness and tanginess that is approachable.” Michele loved the Brunate with its cedar and fennel notes. Galloni agreed, writing: “What a delight it is to taste Oddero's 2018 Barolo Brunate. A glorious wine, the Oddero Brunate is one of the very few wines in this vintage that possesses real mid-palate depth and notable textural intensity.”

The Germano wines were haunting and thought-provoking, showing complexity and depth, as well as more structure than the others. That said, the 2018s are not big and brash compared to other vintages from Germano. As Galloni observed: “In 2018 the Barolo is not a powerhouse, but that is perfectly fine. All the elements are so well balanced.”

We’ve got plenty of Barolo to share with you this November. For those of you on the hunt for wines that can be opened and decanted today, rather than a decade from now, these recent vintages are exactly what you want around your table this holiday season.

Bordiga Genepy Arrives

We’ve very excited to announce the arrival of another fantastic alpine spirit from Bordiga; one crafted with a meticulous, hands-on quality that is apparent in every sip.

The Bordiga Genepy (along with the now-famous vermouths) was one of the first recipes developed by Pietro Bordiga in 1888. At that time, wild genepy grew abundantly in the Alps and all small communities made their own liqueurs. Today, due to over-harvesting and climate change, genepy is a protected plant in Italy, so by law it must be cultivated by specialists.

It takes two years to mature the genepy, after which it produces its aromatic flowers for three harvests. After that, the plants are removed and the ground has to remain fallow for three years before another round of planting can begin. Bordiga is the only distillery sourcing its genepy from estate-owned and estate-farmed fields, making it a true farm-to-table liqueur with total transparency.

How does one enjoy Genepy? Imagine a warm mountain lodge in the winter time, full of conviviality and banter, with glasses raised and good spirits abound. As a true mountain liqueur, Genepy is the perfect foil for your après-ski party or any wintertime activities. Consumed as an aperitivo or digestive, its flavors of white flowers, chamomile, candied citrus, and herbaceous mint are delicious when sipped neat. However, Bordiga’s Genepy also shines in a Last Word cocktail or white Negroni variation.

Gungui Should Be On Your Sardinian Shortlist

If you are in search of pure, high-elevation expressions of Sardinian Cannonau, then Gungui Berteru should be on your shortlist.

-Eric Guido, Vinous

While we appreciate the above quote from Vinous, the number of people searching out any sort of Sardinian Cannonau is likely quite small, let alone “pure, high-elevation expressions.”

Nevertheless, for those who like adventure we believe the rustic grit and intensity of Luca Gungui’s Sardinian Cannonau (the Italian version of Grenache or Garnacha) is a journey worth taking. That’s because, unlike the juicy and fruit-forward expressions we love from France and Spain, the Berteru wines are far more savory, mineral-driven, and full-bodied than what we’re used to from the Rhône or Campo de Borja.

“They’re almost bloody,” said our sales associate Liz Rubin during a recent tasting of Gungui’s Berteru lineup.

Berteru means “sincere” in the Mamoiada dialect. You only need to spend a few minutes with Luca Gungui to understand why he chose this name for his wine label. The Berteru wines are as sincere an expression of land and place as any in the Oliver McCrum portfolio, as Gungui not only eschews cultured yeasts (he believes they interfere with sincerity), he works primarily with unusually high altitude vineyards and remains as hands-off as possible with his farming practices.

The Cannonau wines that come from these granite-rich vineyards are some of the most dynamic we’ve ever tasted. They’re also some of the hardest to find. Berteru is one of our smallest producers and we get very little of the wines to sell each year. With just four total hectares to farm, tasting Gungui’s Cannonau is an experience not enough people have to opportunity to enjoy.

One of our goals for this year is to expand the Gungui universe beyond the handful of major critics and restaurateurs who snatch up the tiny allocations available annually. We need more people to see what the fuss is about! It’s tough with so little wine available, but we’re making an effort.

2022 Whites from Alto Adige's Kuenhof Are Electric

“Easily the best vintage of the Sylvaner I've ever tasted."

That's what Lauren Reuthinger from our California sales team said after tasting through the 2022 Kuenhof releases this past week, and she wasn’t alone. Our entire company is buzzing right now after sampling the Riesling and Veltliner wines as well.

With vineyards in Italy's Alto Adige region at altitudes between 1800 to 2900 feet, the freshness and vibrancy of Kuenhof’s white wines have always been striking, but with a strong vintage like 2022 the precision is even more impressive. Owned by Peter and Brigitte Pliger, the estate is one of the best for white wines in all of Italy with steep, stony vineyards in the Val d'Isarco (or Eisacktal), not far from the border with Austria.

Their Sylvaner, Veltliner and Riesling vines are all farmed organically, and their wines show an almost electric mineral character. If the duty of a great wine is to be distinctive, these wines stand out like beacons: great terroir, careful grape-growing, and brilliant winemaking.

Renowned critic James Suckling famously wrote of the 2020 vintage: “This Alpine masterpiece redefines what Gruner Veltliner can be!” His praise, along with accolades from other writers, have continued with the recent 2022 releases. Vinous critic Eric Guido agrees with our co-worker Lauren as to the quality of the 2022 Sylvaner, recently opining: “It's soft and supple with a balanced inner sweetness and candied lime that embellishes its crisp orchard fruits.”

If you're a fan of clean, racy, and aromatic white wines, you need to try these new Kuenhof expressions. The Riesling, Veltliner and Sylvaner are just hitting the market now and everyone seems to agree: they’re utterly fantastic.

Italy's Top Emerging Winery: Maugeri

We’ve believed in the quality of Renato Maugeri’s wines since we first started working with him, along with his daughters Carla, Michela, and Paola. Given the estate has only been in production for the past few years, the family has taken some amazing strides in that time.

This past month, Gambero Rosso awarded just two white wines from Etna the coveted Tre Bicchieri (three glasses) as the region’s best, and Maugeri’s Etna Bianco Superiore Contrada Volpare was one of them. Here at Oliver McCrum, we believe that Mount Etna is one of the best white wine terroirs in Italy, and Maugeri is a perfect example of it. Clearly we were thrilled with the news, yet not surprised!

Yet, in addition to the Tre Bicchieri, Maugeri was also honored with the award of top emerging winery in all of Italy, with Gambero Rosso writing: “Etna continues to produce spectacular new labels and new wineries. In just three harvests, the winery of Renato Maugeri and his daughters Carla, Michela, and Paola has established itself as one of the denomination’s most significant, from vineyard-specific winemaking to a complete hospitality system.”

What makes the wines from Maugeri so distinctive is their dedication to typicality and locality. There’s no flashy winemaking interfering with the inherent character of the grapes or the expression of the land. The location is allowed to speak for itself and the Maugeri family has proven itself to be the perfect steward for these vineyards.

The Tre Bicchieri-winning Etna Bianco Contrado Volpare is made entirely of Carricante grapes grown in sandy decomposed lava soil near Milo, on the east side of Mount Etna. The vines were planted around 2010, on terraces surrounded by dry-stone walls and forest, at about 700 meters (2,300 feet) above sea level. The fruit from this vineyard translates into flavors of wet stones and Mediterranean herbs in the glass with bright acidity and a stunning minerality that transcends the finish.

As one can imagine, calls and requests for Maugeri have picked up since the awards were announced, so we encourage anyone interested in allocations to inquire sooner than later!