Plantamura
about plantamura
Primitivo, a densely flavored, blackberryish red grape variety, is grown in several parts of Apulia, the ‘heel’ of Italy. The same variety is known in California as Zinfandel; it seems to have originated in Croatia, migrated to the south of Italy, then over to California. I’ve never had a Croatian one, but there are some delicious examples from Apulia and California, and some more serious ones too. For my taste, the best, freshest Italian Primitivos come from a high part of Apulia with the lovely name ‘Gioia del Colle,’ or ‘joy of the hill.’ Plantamura, which is in Gioia del Colle, is the best producer of Primitivo that I have come across; their work in their vineyards, which they see as their main job, is intensive and organic, complemented by clean, restrained winemaking in a pristine little cellar.
Plantamura is the work of Mariangela Plantamura and her husband Vincenzo. Vincenzo manages the vineyards, Mariangela the cellar. Their family has been growing Primitivo for more than a century, and they started bottling their own wines in 2002. They produce only Primitivo, in three different bottlings, differing mostly in the age of the vineyards; less than 4,000 cases are produced in total. All the vineyards are planted using massale selection, which is to say they propagate a number of the best old vines on their estate to create new vineyards, rather than buying clones from a nursery. They look for plants that have the traditional Primitivo bunches, which may contain berries that vary a lot in size (this is sometimes called ‘hen and chicks’), and for naturally low yields. Grasses are cultivated between the rows during the growing season; although this is a dry part of Italy, no irrigation in used.
Plantamura is on the Murgia, a plateau in Apulia made of a kind of limestone called karst, sometimes overlaid with iron-rich reddish soil called ‘terra rossa.’ The elevation is about 360 meters (about 1,200 feet) above sea level; elevation makes for colder nights, and colder nights lead to better retention of acidity in the grapes when they are harvested. Relatively fresh acidity is as important in red wines as it is in whites (if less talked about), particularly if you are drinking them with food.
All three wines are aged in stainless steel; they don’t want the influence of oak to get in the way of the flavors that spring from the vineyard. Primitivo has an abundance of different flavors already, I think this is a good decision.
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THE WINES
Parco Largo (red label)
Young vines, 100% Primitivo planted between 2016 and 2019 on the high plain of the Murgia in limestone-rich soil, organically cultivated, low yield. Winemaking: wine pressed off shortly after fermentation is complete, so a short 7-10 day maceration; result is aged in stainless steel for about six months, no oak used.
Fairly dark red-black; aroma of black plums, earth, baking spices, maybe a hint of coffee bean. On the palate, very flavorful and full-bodied, with abundant fruit, modest tannins, and good freshness despite the overall impression of ripeness. This would be perfect with pizza or any number of pasta dishes, and a good all-around red wine generally.
Contrada San Pietro (black label)
100% old vine Primitivo planted on the high plain of the Murgia in limestone-rich soil, organically cultivated, low yield. Winemaking: wine pressed off shortly after fermentation is complete, so a short 7-10 day maceration; result is aged in stainless steel for about 12 months, then a further 6 months in bottle; no oak used.
Dark red-black; aroma of blackberries, black plums, earth, baking spices, hint of coconut; same notes on the palate, pretty big wine but low in tannins and fresh. I would drink this with red meats or any number of pasta dishes.
Riserva (white label)
100% old vine Primitivo planted on the high plain of the Murgia in limestone-rich soil, organically cultivated, low yield. This vineyard was planted in 1987, and is head-trained, giving even lower yield than the other two vineyards. (You can see old-vine Zinfandel with this same kind of training in Sonoma County.) Winemaking is similar to the other two wines, about 10 days of total maceration in stainless steel, then 12 months aging in the same kind of tank. The wine is held in bottle for about another 12 months before release.
Very dark red-black; intense aroma of black fruits, spices, hints of coffee-bean and mint; same notes on the palate, big wine but not tannic, plush texture despite the complete absence of oak; very long. Roast lamb, maybe? Outstanding Primitivo, best I’ve had.