Dolcetto
Dolcetto
Dolcetto is a much-misunderstood grape variety grown almost exclusively in Piedmont. It may be indigenous to Piedmont (and is claimed as originating in the village of Dogliani), but the ampelographer Galet suggests that it is the same as Douce Noire from Savoie, which may be the same as Charbono. It has been planted in Piedmont since at least the 1500s, possibly since the 1300s.
Although the name of the grape (which means ‘Little Sweet One’) suggests sweetness or at least roundness and drinkability, most Dolcetto (and almost all good Dolcetto) is in fact rich in tannins, if only moderately acidic. Although this is the grapiest, earliest bottled of the three classic Piedmontese varieties it is certainly not ‘the Beaujolais of Italy;’ the 11% abv, high-yield, everyday style that may have inspired this phrase is only sold locally and bears little resemblance to better examples.
It prefers sites that are not directly south-facing, whereas Nebbiolo demands excellent exposure, so the two vines are complementary in terms of site; and it matures well before Nebbiolo, which means the Dolcetto vinification is often complete before the nebbiolo is picked. It is rarely blended. In my experience it does not age in the bottle; drink fresh examples for the best experience.
Dolcetto sometimes bears a similarity to Nebbiolo, in that it shows touches of tar and flowers, and not a little tannin. The color is dramatically different, however; the better dolcettos are an enticing deep purple, with a violet rim. The predominant fruit note is blueberry. Barolo producers are making some excellent Dolcetto these days, and good wines also come from around the village of Dogliani, just south of the Barolo zone. (There are seven Dolcetto DOCs; Alba (usually produced by a Barolo or Barbaresco estate), Asti (rare), Diano d'Alba, Dogliani, Langhe Monregalesi (rare but potentially very good) and Ovada. These last four are specialized appellations known for Dolcetto.)
Dolcetto is the perfect everyday complement to Piedmontese cooking, which is essentially meat-based. I drink a lot of it with red meat in the cooler weather, or with cheese.