Calabrian Whites Under the Spotlight
Michele Boscia
The new vintage of the Antonella Lombardo Mantonico is here and it's the perfect example of our new obsession with Southern Italian whites. Mantonico is the latest IYKYK variety from the little-known, yet heralded region of Calabria, most often recognized for its spicy peppers than its wine.
Calabria was recently added to the Condé Nast bucket list of travel destinations, where editors glowed “this gem of a region is defined by picturesque coastlines, mountainous interiors, and towns that feel refreshingly untouched by mass tourism. It’s a place where meals run long, and beaches are chosen by word of mouth.” Somehow it has avoided the pitfalls of social media hype, which—thank goodness—means we can still find its wines if we want them!
We’ve seen Calabrian momentum forming, not only for the region’s breathtaking destinations, but for their unique wines as well. In their book Italian Wine: The History, Regions and Grapes of an Iconic Wine Country, Shelly Lindgren and Kate Leahy refer to Mantonico Bianco as “Calabria’s future white wine star,” noting its versatility from “refreshing with key lime and honeysuckle aromatics to richer styles, carrying notes of ginger and tropical fruit.” They also mention Antonella Lombardo as one of the region’s producers of note, as does this recent article in Food & Wine by Donatella Polizzi, who gives an amazing account of Mantonico’s storied history:
“Its name is definitely of Greek origin, meaning ‘fortune-teller’ or ‘prophet,’ because it was used by the ancient priests for ceremonial or propitiatory purposes. Drinking plenty of this wine, in fact, caused a drunken stupor and state of inebriation and elation that generated a divination and prophecy power, so achieving a communication between human and supernatural, typical of the antique classic culture and whose traces can be found in Orphism, in the Dyonisian cults, in the orgiastic dances and rites, in the Eleusinian mysteries, and in the Roman bacchanals.”
The beautiful new label adorning the 2023 Antonello Lombardo Mantonico is like an homage to Mantonico Bianco’s mystical past, and we’re incredibly excited to start drinking it for the summer!
A little background on the wine - Antonella’s vineyards are located near the town of Bianco (aptly named), planted within site of the ocean along the Ionian coast where she was raised. Her Mantonico Bianco is a luminous pale yellow, with striking aromas of citrus and the sea. Fermentation is 100% indigenous yeast and the wine spends 5-6 months in stainless steel on fine lees, giving it ample texture and weight.
Have you purchased your ticket to Calabria yet? If not, that’s ok - the Antonella Lombardo wines are here to satiate your enthusiasm in the meantime. It’s time to start adding the wines of Calabria to your drinking list!